Our journey to find the perfect place to start our next chapter has taken us around the world, from the Bahamas to the United Kingdom, Greece, Italy, and finally, Spain.
Italy was a strong contender for a while, and if you’ve been following my blog, you’ll know we explored several charming towns in the south. We were even planning a return trip to spend more time in a couple of places that really caught our eye. However, we had to change our plans due to a surprising and risky requirement for the Italian visa application: applicants must prepay a full year’s rent and include the receipt with their application. We weren’t comfortable with the idea of potentially losing nearly $10,000 if our visa was denied.
A New Direction:
Spain came to our rescue, offering a similar retirement visa without the requirement of a prepaid lease. With no prior knowledge of the country or its people, we decided to give it a try. Our priorities were clear: a beach town that wasn’t a big city, with easy access to both a train station and an airport.
We began our search by looking at the map, starting from the Josep Tarradellas Barcelona-El Prat Airport and working our way south along the coast. It wasn’t long before we found Sitges, a town that seemed to check all our boxes.
Just a 45-minute train ride from the airport, Sitges’ train station is conveniently located within walking distance of the town center. The best part? The beach is a mere 10-minute walk from the station. Choosing this little town to explore was an easy decision, and we were excited to see what it had to offer.
5/11
As always, travel days are never exciting. We flew on Air Canada from Phoenix to Montréal, then to Barcelona. The flight from Phoenix to Montréal was about four hours, and the flight from Montréal to Barcelona was about seven. The layover in Montréal was about 2.5 hours, which broke up the long flight nicely, at least for us.
5/12
Exploring Sitges
Unlike our previous trips, we had no agenda for our time in Sitges. We just wanted to get a feel for the town, its people, and the country.
The train ride from the airport to Sitges took about 45 minutes, and from the station, it was a breezy 10-minute walk to our Airbnb. The station itself was surprisingly busy for a small town, with a helpful Tourist Information Center to the right where the staff spoke English. To the left, a large supermarket offered everything from groceries on the bottom floor to various shops on the top, a spot we made a mental note to check out later.
The walk to our place offered a glimpse of the town’s charm. The narrow, cobblestone streets were lined with unique shops, each one tempting us to stop and browse. Despite being awake for nearly 24 hours, our desire to see the beach was too strong to resist.
Our Airbnb was just a five-minute walk from the shore. As we rounded the corner, the deep blue of the Mediterranean Sea grew larger, framed by the silhouettes of palm trees. And there it was—Sitges.
Town of Beaches and Delights
Sitges is built along a stunning coastline, boasting 18 beaches over 12 miles, with 10 of them right in front of the main urban area. A long boardwalk runs the entire length, perfect for a leisurely stroll. We saw families with kids, joggers, dog walkers, and couples holding hands, all enjoying the beautiful sea breeze.
During our walk, we backtracked to a bakery we’d passed on our way in. Enrich had caught our eye with its decadent-looking treats. We were so excited to try them that we completely forgot to take pictures of our purchases, including a soft, buttery, seashell-shaped cake dipped in chocolate. It was a perfect blend of rich flavor without being overly sweet, and it reminded me of a Madeleine, but three times as thick.
I was so in love with this treat that I went back to the bakery every day, only to be disappointed. It turned out they only bake this specific cake on Mondays! Luckily, we arrived on a Monday and left on a Tuesday. I made sure to return the following Monday before we left, and there were only two left, which I promptly bought. On our next trip, I’ll be sure to schedule in multiple Mondays!
A First-Night Feast
To cap off our first day, we chose Komokieras, a restaurant with an impressive 4.7-star rating. Our meal started with complimentary champagne, bread, and olives. While the bread was delicious, the olives were lost on me because I just don’t like olives.
For our main course, we chose steak—not very “Spanish,” I know, but we love it. For our appetizer, we decided to be adventurous and ordered thinly sliced raw red shrimp. While it was an interesting experience and good as far as raw shrimp goes, it’s not something we’ll be ordering again. We’ll stick to our cooked shrimp!
5/13-5/14
Sitges
Perfect Beach Day in Sitges
May is an ideal time to visit Sitges, offering the perfect blend of pleasant weather and manageable crowds. With highs around 73°F (23°C) and lows of 53°F (12°C), the cool sea breeze makes for incredibly comfortable days, whether you’re relaxing on the sand or strolling along the shore.
While the beaches are far from empty, the crowds in May are much smaller compared to the peak summer months of June and July, when the town comes alive with numerous festivals and events. This means you can enjoy the beautiful coastline without the overwhelming hustle and bustle, making it a great time for a relaxing beach getaway.
5/15
Barcelona: A City We “Had” to Visit
Ah, Barcelona. A city immortalized in song and a former Olympic host, yet surprisingly, it was never on our personal must-visit list. Most people dream of exploring major Spanish cities like Barcelona and Madrid, with Barcelona often topping the list as a lifelong travel goal. Our own dream, however, has always been to live in a tranquil beach town.
We hadn’t planned on visiting Barcelona during this trip. But with the city just a 50-minute train ride from Sitges, it felt almost obligatory. How could we explain to our friends that we skipped one of Spain’s most iconic cities when it was so close?
So, we made the trip, primarily to see one of the world’s most famous landmarks: the Basilica de la Sagrada Família. This architectural marvel commands an entire city block, surrounded by a vibrant urban landscape. The streets around the basilica are lined with a diverse mix of restaurants, pubs, and shops, with two beautiful parks at opposite ends. You could easily spend an entire day exploring the area, soaking in the energy and admiring the sheer scale of the basilica before even stepping inside.
The Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria, or simply La Boqueria, is a must-see destination in Barcelona. Located on the bustling street of La Rambla, this vibrant and historic market is one of the city’s most famous and picturesque spots.
Getting there is straightforward, even from a landmark like the Sagrada Familia. It’s about an 18-minute journey by train, requiring a simple transfer that’s easy to navigate even for a first time visitor.
Once you arrive, you’ll find that La Boqueria is a feast for the senses. With over 200 stalls, the market is a kaleidoscope of colors, aromas, and sounds. It’s easy to get lost in the winding aisles, which can feel like a maze, but that’s part of the fun. Every turn reveals a new array of products, from fresh fruits and vegetables to a wide selection of seafood, meats, cheeses, and artisanal goods.
While you might initially plan just to visit, it’s very likely you’ll end up staying for a meal like we did. The market is a fantastic place to sample a variety of appetizers and tapas, creating a delicious and authentic dining experience.
5/18
Vilanova i la Geltru: A Day Trip
Just a 12-minute train ride south of Sitges lies another beautiful seaside town with a name that just rolls off the tongue: Vilanova i la Geltrú. We decided to visit because it was another contender for our beach-town hunting. Intrigued by its reputation for having a much larger downtown shopping area, we spent nearly three hours exploring the city’s main thoroughfare—a long, wide, open boulevard closed to cars. Shops and restaurants lined both sides, with chairs and tables set up in the center for outdoor dining. The atmosphere was lively, and it was easy to get lost in the rhythm of the city.
After exploring downtown, we started to head toward the beach, afterall it was the main purpose of visting this town. We quickly realized the layout was very different from Sitges. The walk from the train station to the beachfront street took a good 15 minutes, and from there, it was another 10-minute walk to the boardwalk. Then, to actually get to the sand and touch the water, you had to walk another five minutes across a wide, open expanse.
This made the beach significantly less accessible than in Sitges. If we were to live there, we’d likely be in the downtown area for easier access to shops and groceries, which would mean a 20-minute walk to the beach. For us, easy beach access is a top priority, and Vilanova i la Geltrú just didn’t meet that requirement.
5/19
A Welcome Surprise: Sitges’s Inclusivity Like A Rainbow Colored Bubble
As I mentioned, Spain was never on our radar, and Sitges was just a random pick from a map. Yes we would love to visit the country but never considered to move there. When I started researching the town, I was surprised to learn that it’s an incredibly LGBTQ-friendly community. The annual Pride celebration attracts thousands, and various LGBTQ events are held throughout the year. For us, finding an LGBTQ-friendly place was a luxury we never expected. Our priority has always been a small beach town or fishing village—that’s it.
When we first arrived, we had no idea what to expect. We were excited to see the ocean, the beaches, and get a feel for the Spanish people. Very quickly, we noticed couples of all kinds walking hand in hand along the boardwalk. Gay, straight, it didn’t matter—nobody paid any attention. The sight of so many same-sex couples holding hands was comforting yet surreal.
You might think, “What’s the big deal? Every couple holds hands.” What you might not understand is that my partner and I have been together for over 30 years and married for eight. I can literally count on one hand the number of times we’ve held hands in public. We’ve avoided it for a simple reason: we don’t want to be harassed, assaulted, or subjected to strange looks from strangers.
After two days in Sitges, we mustered up the courage to try this foreign concept of holding hands. It took us a couple of days to get the hang of it; we even had to practice! We laughed at the idea that two guys who have been together for over 30 years had to practice how to hold hands. It was both comical and sad.
Later, when we visited the neighboring town of Vilanova i la Geltrú, we couldn’t help but notice the difference. The town was nice and bigger than Sitges, but we saw only one single rainbow flag between the train station and the downtown area. I’m sure there were more, but they weren’t prominently displayed.
When we returned to Sitges, we felt an instant sense of relaxation. We felt we could be ourselves again. It was a powerful observation, and it made me say to my partner, “We’re back in the bubble!” A rainbow-colored bubble that made us feel safe, relaxed, and, most importantly, at home.
